Not that there's anything wrong with that combination. It will likely run forever if you keep oil in it. It's just a little slow for a car this heavy, and therefore boring.
I'm currently in the process of checking the junkyard engine over. It's up on a stand in a friend's garage, where I've torn it down to the shortblock so far. Some observations:1) Someone's been in this engine before me. I'm not yet sure if that's good or bad. I know this because:
a) the intermediate shaft sprocket mark was mis-aligned according to the other timing sprockets by about 90 degrees. That tells me that someone's at least had the oil pump out at some point.
b) The plated links do not match up with the dots on the balance shafts. That's not the end of the world, but that's not how it would have come from the factory. And no, the balance shafts do not need to be removed to remove the oil pump, and vice versa.
2) This engine is also not original to the donor car. Both the engine block and the transmission case have "89 Dodge 2.5" written on them in paint marker. I'm now dealing with a combination of unknown mileage. Again I don't know if that's good or bad.
3) It looks like this engine might have relatively few kilometers, or at least few kilometers since someone was last in there. Check out that crosshatch!4) I'm going to use anti-seize compound and stainless fasteners wherever I can. Half of the exhaust manifold studs came out of the head with the nuts, and the exhaust manifold-to-turbo nuts were quite tough. I had a clear shot at 2 of them with the impact gun (which is possibly my favourite tool of them all) but the other two were much more difficult. After soaking for days in penetrating oil, a little ingenuity, a lot of grunting and a shiny new 15mm wrench with lifetime warranty (50% off Mastercraft Maximum wrench sets after Boxing Week!) later, I got the other 2 nuts off.
5) The people at Buck's are F'n A-holes. Yup, I said it. How lazy do you have to be? I think it would actually take less effort to remove the drain bolt from the pan. The location of that hole didn't even drain all the oil out anyway. My plan to deal with this is to pound it out as flat as possible, then either a) get it welded back up or b) jam a bolt through it and give it a nice gob of JB Weld. I would prefer the first option, but I don't exactly have a welder in my back pocket.6) The turbo is in good shape. There is no in/out shaft play, and minimal (read: about .005" or less) side-to-side play. So much for a good excuse to upgrade to a larger one. The Mitsubishi TE04H that came stock on the 88+ Turbo I engines is pretty small, although it does spool quickly and seem to be good at least to 14 PSI, which I don't plan to exceed anyway.
I don't have more photos showing exactly how far I got at the moment, but like I said I have it down to shortblock right now. I still intend to pull the pistons, and start the slow process of getting everything cleaned. I'm trying to determine where, if anywhere, to take the block to get it checked over, cleaned, honed, etc. as well as the head. At bare minimum I'm going to scrub everything up myself and give a good visual inspection. There were no signs of headgasket failure, past, present, or near future, but I will still check the block deck and head for warpage. There are the usual minute cracks between the valve seats, which seem to be unavoidable on these engines.
When the time comes to re-assemble I'm going to be replacing every seal, plug, o-ring and gasket, along with new rings, main and rod bearings. New oil feed line for the turbo, and new vacuum and fuel hoses. I'll add other parts to this list as I find them to require replacement.
That's all for now, more updates as I feel like posting them.
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